Saturday 30 December 2017

Irrawaddy cruise Days 5 and 6

Day 5 Monday Dec 4th
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We didn't dawdle after breakfast, we went straight back to our cabin because around 9,00am we would be passing the Akauk Mountain range on the port side.
Our cabin is on the port side (great for those lovely sunsets every evening).

Carved into the mountain are over 300 statues of Buddha.
(The story is that there used to be a tax payable as you passed along the river and in between collecting the taxes the people who lived here spent their time carving Buddhas).





It was a truly amazing sight. Buddhas of every size and form. The only way to view them is from the middle of the river and we had a perfect ringside seat.



We then continued to slowly cruise the river, relaxing, reading and enjoying watching the world go by.




After lunch we docked in Pyay (formerly called Prome).
Once again we watched the crew prepare our landing, this time they actually got out the mattock and cut steps into the bank. There were less steps than some places but the uneven and sandy bank made us grateful for the help from the crew.
A visit to the Shwesandaw Pagoda had been deleted from our itinerary but after some concerns from passengers Thomas agreed to squeeze in a quick visit for all those interested. The tour would leave at 1.30 so we needed to have an early lunch. Michael opted to have a slow lunch but I joined the group and we set off through Pyay to the Pagoda.






The Pagoda is in the centre of the town although it sits high above it. The statue of the sitting Buddha stands tall, above the tree line and from the terrace at the pagoda you get an amazing 'eye to eye' view.
It was certainly a spectacular pagoda, my personal favourite is still the Shewdagon but some people preferred the Shwesandaw.

We then got the bus back to the wharf where we divided into our blue and orange groups and started our tour of Pyay. .

Our first stop was the 6th Century brick stupa.


 Today the blue group had Terry as a guide and he explained to us how Unesco is now back in control of the archaelogical sites in Burma.
They left a few years ago after differences with the military government on the preservation and 'renovation' of the temples.  Unesco wanted to preserve but the government preferred a quick make over, using local crafts men, local modern materials and a quick turn around time. After the 2016 earthquake a lot of the locally 'restored' structures collapsed so Unesco is back to its' original position and is happy to be back in control.




We then drove 8kms out of town to the Mawzar Museum to see the artefacts from Sri Krestra, the ancient city of Pyay. The small, three roomed museum has many beautiful items dating from 4th to 9th Century and was a delight to visit.
We then stopped at the old city of Sri Krestra town walls. These brick walls have sunk into the earth over the centuries but are still a stunning sight.





Around 4.15pm we were safely back on board the boat, with the assistance of the crew.
By 5.00pm we were back cruising upstream.
I did try the cocktail tonight - it was called Shwe Pyi and consisted of Gin, Orange Juice, Grenadine Syrup and Lime Juice. It may sound odd but was actually quite nice, especially the second one.

After dinner the entertainment was a quiz night.
Tables of 6 but joining with John and Lorraine and Megan, as the team called 'The Nongs',  the 5 of us didn't do too badly - in fact we won!
Our prizes were a small locally hand made terracotta bowl and saucer.
(I have them at home now, one with pot pouri in and the other as a small pencil pot in the office.).
Our night mooring was at  Nyanpinseik.

 

Day 6 Dec 5th
 
We started the day with an early breakfast because our tour began at 9:15.


We, as usual, watched the crew prepare the river bank for us and although the river bank was steep it was dry and firm. My methodology of watching my feet and letting the crew propel me forward works well.

Although we had a full morning tour of the small town of Thayetmyo there were no pagodas so no removing of shoes or need for knees to be covered. Our means of transport in Thayetmyo was not to be a modern coach, today we were travelling in a horse drawn cart.



I put Michael up front as the step up there was much higher, and I climbed into the back. It was, naturally, bumpy but was actually quite good fun.
Our first stop was out of town at the Thayetmyo Golf Course. The oldest golf course in Burma.





Here we got to test out putting skills, mens v ladies. 3 balls each.
I still can't believe that Michael actually got a ball in the hole!!


The men won by 5 holes to 4 but the ladies disputed the result as one man had a few sneaky practice shots beforehand. Thomas called it a 'sort of tie' and we ladies got to have a photo with the trophy too.




Then it was back on (or is it in?) the cart and out to the old Post Office.
Here we produced our APT postcards (having been told to bring them) and courtesy of APT had them stamped and then posted them in the oldest post box in Burma. Thomas joked about it still taking 6 months to get back to UK or Australia.



We sent one to Michael's brother in UK, one to my brother, in UK and 2 to ourselves in Aus. writing on the one to my brother to let us know when it arrived. ( He sent us an email on Dec 11th- postcard arrived today! 6 days, not 6 months. Our cards to ourselves arrived once we got home - on Dec 19th!)

We boarded the carts again and had a nice picturesque trip back into town.
There was time for a wander around the market before heading home - back to the boat and sailing away at 11.30am




The riverside scenery was changing now, with more trees and wider sandy beach areas. We saw more farmers and less fishermen. After another glorious lunch we sat in the cabin, in our arm chairs, doors open enjoying watching that world go by.




I passed on the cocktail at night - 'Horse Cart' - Brandy, Dark Rum, Whisky, Orange Juice, Pineapple Juice and Grenadine Syrup.

Our mooring for the night was near Sinpaungwei.



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