Saturday 30 December 2017

Irrawaddy Cruise Days 7 and 8

Day 7 Wednesday Dec 6th

A busy day today with village visits in the morning and again later this afternoon.
Our morning tour was around the village of Minhla where we were to visit the old fort and the local market.

The river bank was particularly steep, with lots of step and to make it harder they all seemed to be different heights and depths, but with the trusty crew and a few deep breaths we all made it.


Minhla fort was just next to our mooring, on the banks of the river. It was built with help from Italian engineers in 1860 to keep British forces out of Burma. There were 35 cannons positioned at the fort.
On the opposite side of the river there was another fort, thus preventing any river passage of the British Navy.
On November 17th 1885 Minhla Fort fell to the British, who then sailed up the Irrawaddy River to claim the Royal Palace at Mandalay during the Third Anglo-Burmese War.



The Fort is in good condition but it was a bit worrying to stand on the walls and look down to see most of the foundation bricks lying on the river bank, having been eroded away.





We then walked into town to the local market, where we had all been given a challenge. We were to form groups of around 6 or 7 and then armed with a shopping list and some local money (provided) we were to buy some fresh vegetables. Terry had run through the list with us all and told us how to pronounce the  words. We noticed that a couple of ladies seemed very enthusiastic so we joined their group!
At the market, the two ladies got down to the task. We decided that our first job was to buy a longyi (local attire, a 'sarong' worn by men and women). We found a stall selling some very nice ones and after a bit of haggling we had one each. We also had another one which was un-stitched, just a length of material, we bought it just because it's a beautiful piece of material.

 

Then we found our ladies again, just in time to 'help' complete the last couple of purchases.  Everyone at the market was so friendly, they are obviously used to the foreigners and their silly game, and seemed to enjoy it as much as we did.
Task completed we still had time to wander around the market some more.





I saw some brightly coloured shopping baskets but when I found that they were plastic from China they lost their appeal.  Then we found our way back to the meeting point and, helping carry the vegetable baskets, all went back to the ship. We set sail at 11.00 - the tour had only been 2 hours, it had seemed longer; it was great.




We  sat enjoying the world pass by, had a wonderful lunch, and then around 2.30 moored at our next port of call - Magwe.
Magwe, has around 40,000 people and is the hottest town in Burma with temps around 46 degrees in summer, they grow peanuts and sesame.
(Go-Myanmar.com website describes Magwe as 'a dusty town rarely visited by tourists")

The river bank here was not steep, just a slight rise and then a few steps but the crew were in attendance and very mindful of everyone's safety.


We got on our coach and headed through town, spotting a few large trays of peanuts drying on rooftops. 
We visited a local park and saw a wonderful statue of General Aung San (Aung San Suu Kyi 's father)
He is revered as the architect of modern Burma and a national hero, he was responsible for bringing about Burma's independence from the British but was assassinated six months before independence. 


Whilst standing in the park Terry gave us a wonderful talk about the General and the family life of Aung San Suu Kyi.
Then we waked across the road to another area of the park and saw the Independence Monument.


We then drove out of town to visit a Buddhist Nunnery. The girls looked so lovely, and sang a welcome song for us. We were encouraged to ask questions and were all enthralled by these beautiful people.


Then we drove up to the summit of the Naguttama hill to the Myathalun Pagoda.

 




I found my 'birthday buddha' which, being born on a Wednesday, has the symbol of the elephant. I poured the ritual 3 cups of water over the elephant and the buddha and then rang the bell 3 times. This should give me peace and tranquility in my life.





The Pagoda was magnificent and so was the view, the itinerary had obviously been planned for us to be up there at sunset but the weather had changed and it was not a spectacular sunset. As the sun continued to set we drove back down the hill to the boat.

Tonight's cocktail was - Iron Cross. Brandy, Cointreau, Lime Juice and a Cherry.
Sounded awful but was actually very nice (just the one though).

Dinner tonight was a special booking in the gourmet dining room. We had booked with 8 others and were to enjoy a gourmet evening with the menu created by Luke Nyugen.
 Well I must say that we were a little disappointed, the portions were very small and the food itself was bland compared to the food served in the usual restaurant. The menu in this special dining room changes next week but no one at our table was rushing to make a booking.

We stayed chatting until after the movie had started so once again, it was an early night.
We stayed at our Magwe mooring overnight. 



Day 8 Thursday Dec 7th

Time to relax this morning as we cruise along towards our afternoon destination, the town of Salay. If we had any doubts about the erosion of the river bank, this morning banished them. As we cruised along we could see and hear large clods of earth dropping into the river.



We enjoyed more sights of river life.




We were very pleased to see evidence of some attempt to control the erosion, posts placed into the bank and bamboo placed in a chequer board pattern.


 We docked after lunch, once again our mooring was next to the locals bathing and doing their washing.


Michael opted to 'sit this one out' so I disembarked solo.


 I had a nice surprise in that there were no steps up the river bank, we just walked along through crops and down a side street.  There were a few hawkers but we were told that they had driven down from Bagan and that the prices were somewhat higher than others would be charging in Bagan. They were factoring in the price of petrol to drive here. Among the items they were hawking were copies of George Orwell's novel Burmese Days.

We set off with Thomas as our guide, on a walking tour around town. The town had only 6.500 people and was a very nice, quiet place. 
We passed a lovely roadside shrine, actually two shrines one much grander than the other.


 We stopped to have a look at an old colonial house which is on the market for $30,000US, it is estimated that with local tradesmen it would cost $20,000US to restore it. No one on our tour was interested in this project.


 Our first stop was an old monastery.


Only one monk lives here now, in this large colonial building. He is in his late 70s and was assigned two younger monks to look after him but they absconded, leaving him alone.
The old wooden monastery, was built in 1882,and houses some lovely historic items. It was quite dark inside the monastery and we had to be careful not to trip over the steps, we were grateful that Thomas had brought a small torch.









We then stopped at a wonderful giant gold Buddha - Maga Laba Man Paya, the  largest laquered Buddha in Burma which dates back to the 13th Century. It was really beautiful and I just took a few minutes to pause and take in the serenity. It was whilst I was in quiet reflection that I noticed that there were a couple of small geckos running around Buddhas left cheek. That definitely brought a smile to my lips.



  There were some lovely statues in the grounds too.



We carried on our walking tour, stopping to visit the home of the family of the rich man who built the wooden monastery. His great, great grandson welcomed us into his home. 
 We also walked past the home of a wealthy trader, he had imported grass for his front roadside verge.


 We were back on board the boat by sunset, another beautiful end to the day.


 The evening's entertainment was down to the passengers tonight, it was 'Longyi Night'. There was much hilarity from the bar staff when everyone arrived in their longyis, but they kindly took everyone in hand and soon we all had our longyis correctly tied. 
The men were first to parade, two circuits of the lounge. Then it was the turn of us ladies - as one spectator commented - "The women definitely have more rhythm". There were prizes for the best dressed, but neither Michael nor I won this competition. 



 After dinner it was karaoke night - something we avidly avoid so, once more an early night.
We were moored at Salay overnight.

  (At lunch time we had met the new head chef, he was from Wales. I joked about a change of menu and sure enough tonight we had Leek Soup!!)


Irrawaddy cruise Days 5 and 6

Day 5 Monday Dec 4th
.
We didn't dawdle after breakfast, we went straight back to our cabin because around 9,00am we would be passing the Akauk Mountain range on the port side.
Our cabin is on the port side (great for those lovely sunsets every evening).

Carved into the mountain are over 300 statues of Buddha.
(The story is that there used to be a tax payable as you passed along the river and in between collecting the taxes the people who lived here spent their time carving Buddhas).





It was a truly amazing sight. Buddhas of every size and form. The only way to view them is from the middle of the river and we had a perfect ringside seat.



We then continued to slowly cruise the river, relaxing, reading and enjoying watching the world go by.




After lunch we docked in Pyay (formerly called Prome).
Once again we watched the crew prepare our landing, this time they actually got out the mattock and cut steps into the bank. There were less steps than some places but the uneven and sandy bank made us grateful for the help from the crew.
A visit to the Shwesandaw Pagoda had been deleted from our itinerary but after some concerns from passengers Thomas agreed to squeeze in a quick visit for all those interested. The tour would leave at 1.30 so we needed to have an early lunch. Michael opted to have a slow lunch but I joined the group and we set off through Pyay to the Pagoda.






The Pagoda is in the centre of the town although it sits high above it. The statue of the sitting Buddha stands tall, above the tree line and from the terrace at the pagoda you get an amazing 'eye to eye' view.
It was certainly a spectacular pagoda, my personal favourite is still the Shewdagon but some people preferred the Shwesandaw.

We then got the bus back to the wharf where we divided into our blue and orange groups and started our tour of Pyay. .

Our first stop was the 6th Century brick stupa.


 Today the blue group had Terry as a guide and he explained to us how Unesco is now back in control of the archaelogical sites in Burma.
They left a few years ago after differences with the military government on the preservation and 'renovation' of the temples.  Unesco wanted to preserve but the government preferred a quick make over, using local crafts men, local modern materials and a quick turn around time. After the 2016 earthquake a lot of the locally 'restored' structures collapsed so Unesco is back to its' original position and is happy to be back in control.




We then drove 8kms out of town to the Mawzar Museum to see the artefacts from Sri Krestra, the ancient city of Pyay. The small, three roomed museum has many beautiful items dating from 4th to 9th Century and was a delight to visit.
We then stopped at the old city of Sri Krestra town walls. These brick walls have sunk into the earth over the centuries but are still a stunning sight.





Around 4.15pm we were safely back on board the boat, with the assistance of the crew.
By 5.00pm we were back cruising upstream.
I did try the cocktail tonight - it was called Shwe Pyi and consisted of Gin, Orange Juice, Grenadine Syrup and Lime Juice. It may sound odd but was actually quite nice, especially the second one.

After dinner the entertainment was a quiz night.
Tables of 6 but joining with John and Lorraine and Megan, as the team called 'The Nongs',  the 5 of us didn't do too badly - in fact we won!
Our prizes were a small locally hand made terracotta bowl and saucer.
(I have them at home now, one with pot pouri in and the other as a small pencil pot in the office.).
Our night mooring was at  Nyanpinseik.

 

Day 6 Dec 5th
 
We started the day with an early breakfast because our tour began at 9:15.


We, as usual, watched the crew prepare the river bank for us and although the river bank was steep it was dry and firm. My methodology of watching my feet and letting the crew propel me forward works well.

Although we had a full morning tour of the small town of Thayetmyo there were no pagodas so no removing of shoes or need for knees to be covered. Our means of transport in Thayetmyo was not to be a modern coach, today we were travelling in a horse drawn cart.



I put Michael up front as the step up there was much higher, and I climbed into the back. It was, naturally, bumpy but was actually quite good fun.
Our first stop was out of town at the Thayetmyo Golf Course. The oldest golf course in Burma.





Here we got to test out putting skills, mens v ladies. 3 balls each.
I still can't believe that Michael actually got a ball in the hole!!


The men won by 5 holes to 4 but the ladies disputed the result as one man had a few sneaky practice shots beforehand. Thomas called it a 'sort of tie' and we ladies got to have a photo with the trophy too.




Then it was back on (or is it in?) the cart and out to the old Post Office.
Here we produced our APT postcards (having been told to bring them) and courtesy of APT had them stamped and then posted them in the oldest post box in Burma. Thomas joked about it still taking 6 months to get back to UK or Australia.



We sent one to Michael's brother in UK, one to my brother, in UK and 2 to ourselves in Aus. writing on the one to my brother to let us know when it arrived. ( He sent us an email on Dec 11th- postcard arrived today! 6 days, not 6 months. Our cards to ourselves arrived once we got home - on Dec 19th!)

We boarded the carts again and had a nice picturesque trip back into town.
There was time for a wander around the market before heading home - back to the boat and sailing away at 11.30am




The riverside scenery was changing now, with more trees and wider sandy beach areas. We saw more farmers and less fishermen. After another glorious lunch we sat in the cabin, in our arm chairs, doors open enjoying watching that world go by.




I passed on the cocktail at night - 'Horse Cart' - Brandy, Dark Rum, Whisky, Orange Juice, Pineapple Juice and Grenadine Syrup.

Our mooring for the night was near Sinpaungwei.